My first post about Belize focused on the amazing things happening from a boat, from the land, above. However, this trip was all about the water, and what was under the water was beyond amazing! Part II of our trip to Belize.
The rest of the gang was either certified already, or took a “resort dive.”
When I was a kid, I watched every episode of The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau (hit link to read about why he mattered). I was madly in love with his beautiful world, and wanted to be him, when I grew up… not be like him, but be him. When we are children, magic still seems possible, and if I could have twitched my nose, I would have been on the Calypso in a blink. I was drawn to the ocean from the time I could walk. Many of my earliest memories are beside the sea. But Jacques Cousteau made that world so much more beautiful, exciting and alluring. I wanted to go below the surface and see what he filmed each week; I wanted to ride the waves and explore. However, forty-five years have passed since I first dreamed of that life, and I still have not learned to dive. Each time I set out to do it, something blocks my path. Ear problems, asthma, and on our recent trip– when I finally thought I would do a “resort dive” (a quick training, and then a brief open water dive, with instructors), I had my accident, and all hope of diving that week, disappeared. Poof! But the magic did not vanish.
Showing off a conch shell… that I couldn’t keep.
I’ve never been diving, but I’ve been very fortunate to have enjoyed many magical experiences in the sea. I’ve been to the Great Barrier Reef (GBR) twice, and both times snorkeled. When I was at the GBR in college, nearly 30 years ago, there was much less loss of reef and reef-life than there is today. It was beautiful! But I was a poor college student, who had scrimped and saved for that trip, and was living and mooching off the kindness of Australians. My snorkeling experiences were mostly closer to shore, and not as far out on the reef as I would have liked. When I returned many years later, kids in tow, there were so many tourist boats; the water was crowded, and the reef was showing the stress of this industry. That said, it was still beautiful! I’ve been to Hawaii numerous times and snorkeled there, but I’ve never been down deep… where the fish really live. However, even without diving, Belize really upped the ante for all future water adventures.
We spent our days and nights on a fantastic catamaran; every day was a water day! Belize offered an amazing opportunity to imagine what it must be like to explore the depths, even though I never got any deeper than I could hold my breath. Though my ribs prevented me from going deep, my cohorts were able to dive down and swim through a short cave/bridge, on the reef! Watching each of them do it was fantastic! Most of the reef around Belize is protected. It is the 2nd largest barrier reef, outside the GBR, and the people of Belize take its health and protection very seriously! There were “police” everywhere– their small boats coming up to make sure you had a permit to be there, that you weren’t taking anything you shouldn’t, that you were careful with the coral, and that the turtles, rays, and other magnificent creatures were not teased or stressed. The animals that live there are unafraid of humans, and just as curious to check out us, as we were to check out them!
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- Magic!
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- Look at those faces!
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- Bioluminescence at work… note the spots!
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- Check out these amazing colors! Upper left-hand corner
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- Oh! Hi there little puffer fish!
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- Amazing corals
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- Can you spot the flounder? He was amazing to watch for a while…
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- Liam enters the cave…
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- Little Man, snorkeling– and my very favorite photo!
One night we did a “night snorkel.” This involved heading out from Caye Caulker at twilight, by small boat. I’d already broken my ribs by then, so the bouncing boat was not fun. We anchored near the reef, and the guides waited until we could see at least 3 stars in the sky. Then, we all slipped into the water, high-powered flash lights in hand, and our guides took us on a magical trip that I will never forget! We did not bring our underwater camera, as we hadn’t used it in the dark and worried we’d have trouble holding that and a flash light. We did bring our Go-Pro, and got some fun videos. The creatures that come out at night tend to be that much more amazing because of bioluminescence.
“the biochemical emission of light by living organisms such as fireflies and deep-sea fishes. • the light emitted in such a way.”
Check out these amazing colors! Upper left-hand corner
Many of the creatures of the sea glow, shimmer, flash colorful lights, at night, because of bioluminescence, and it’s sheer magic to witness! We saw three separate octopuses, one of them hunting a bright yellow fish! He pursued the fish, our group in awe and squealing inside our masks (cover your mouth and yell “Oh my god! Look at that! Guys! Guys! Look at this!” and you may have a sense of what we sounded like). The octopus finally spread his entire body across a rock, flashed blue, green, then blue again in a glowing blue-light brilliance, and ate the fish. It was stunning! A small squid swam amongst us, spots on its body blinking many colors– you might swear you had seen a UFO, underwater! Then, it turned its entire body toward us and shot a stream of dark ink! (More mask/snorkel screaming!)
If you can imagine all of this, imagine it as seen with the aid of our super, high-powered flash lights. The water was black without them, as our guides memorably demonstrated, by having us all shut them off. I had never been so far from shore (it would be a monumental swim back, if need be), at night, in pitch dark. It was scary and thrilling and beautiful, all at once! Our flashlights sent off beams of light, illuminating outcroppings of giant Elk coral, or coral cliffs. The fish came out to see what was happening, and came closer out of curiosity. Spiny lobsters, their eyes glowing red, crawled along the bottom, and giant rays swam by– appearing like ghosts into our beams. One came right between our exchange student, David and friend Shayne, and David was out of there in a flash! I’m not sure who was more shocked: the ray or David. The video shows a ray suddenly appear, right in front of the lens, and David’s legs madly swimming away!
(In this video, you can see one of the rays, swimming by us. Then, you can hear me yelling that one is right under us!)
By day we explored the Hol Chan Marine Preserve, where turtles and rays watched us, as closely as we watched them. Highly protected and guarded, the marine life there was not fearful of us, and came up to watch us as we snorkeled along. There were thousands of conch shells covering the bottom of the preserve. They’ve been left there for hundreds of years, by fishermen, marine life, and guides– who use the conch to bring sea turtles, nurse sharks and rays, in closer. The nurse sharks are not threatening, and though it took me a while to believe it, we ended up swimming amongst them numerous times. Sea turtles swam alongside us, and while we were not suppose to pet them, they often would come so close that you had to touch them, to give them space. Endless varieties of fish swam up to our masks… watching us, and darting away again.
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- Ray Alley… They are wonderous to see!
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- C is for Camouflage
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- Just chillin’, she looked like a painting
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- Turtle crossing…
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- Oh! Hi there little puffer fish!
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- Ray
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- Eagle rays approaching…
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- approaching…
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- Right under me!
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- Staring each other down…
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- Our guide: Ally… she was just as amazing to watch, in the water!
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- Really? You again?
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- Thousands of conch line the sea bottom, and this guy just kept coming up for more attention…
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- In or on the water… it was all spectacular!
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- Now he’s brought some friends!
While we were living on a boat, and the underwater world was always around us, it was particularly spectacular to don a mask each day and feel free to see these things whenever we wanted. It was not a case of needing to go find the fish, but merely a matter of slipping into the water to watch. It never got old! We swam when we woke up, we swam before bed. We bathed in the sea, we floated there. We watched it, when we weren’t in it. I’m not sure I’ve ever been any place that was more beautiful, and that made me feel so enchanted. I may not have gotten to dive, but for one week the Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau was at my fingertips, and I loved every single moment. The creatures that live on and around the Belizean reef made our week extra special. It was an honor to share their world, and the things we saw only made me want to go deeper, see more… get my certification!
If this sounds like a dream vacation you might want to take too, contact Belize Sailing Vacations, and make your own memories. It was Un-Belizeable!
If you enjoyed this post, please hit like and consider leaving a comment; I love to hear what readers have to say. If you enjoy this blog, check out Tales From the Motherland’s Facebook page (my goal is 400 likes this year), and Twitter, where I struggle to keep it brief.
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TALES FROM THE MOTHERLAND 
Wow. It looks and sounds incredible and I am uber-jealous!!!
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It was incredible, and I’m jealous of anyone else, doing it right now! 😉 Welcome to Tales From the Motherland! I appreciate you taking the time to read this post, and share your thoughts; your time is much appreciated! You might also enjoy part one in the series about Belize.
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That’s wonderful that you snorkel. I’m such a wimp, I’ve never dared. I’m not a fan of creatures on land or sea (other than the pet canine and feline variety…). Your photos are beautiful!
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Thanks so much Carrie. I love the water, and I love seeing what’s under the surface (on so many levels!). I have every intention of trying to get my diving certification before the Fiji trip in October… That would be an amazing experience!
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Absolutely incredible!
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Thanks Fearless! It truly was.
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Gorgeous, gorgeous, GORGEOUS! Fabulous shots and commentary, Dawn. What a perfect place for diving and snorkeling. (Though when I saw the length of that stingray’s stinger in the video I admit to thinking about Steve Irwin’s tragic “spearing.” It just flashed into my head and I held my breath until the end.) So glad everyone made it back okay.
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At first, the sharks, the rays, the barracudas… all made me nervous! But they are all so benign. You don’t mess with rays, and I too thought of Steve– more than once. But, if you simply watch and don’t touch, they are all quite gentle. Our naturalist, Ally, actually had a ray that would come to her and let her (A) pick it up and carry it around!! THAT was amazing! Thanks for taking the time to enjoy this post.
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I remember Jacques very well, Dawn. What gorgeous sights! I hope we’ll see similar ones when we visit the Great Barrier Reef.
janet
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Oh, the GBR is truly amazing! IF you can, explore some smaller outfits, that might get you out to less crowded areas of the reef. I’ve had a lot of experience in Australia. If you’re interested in some suggestions, email me. When do you go, Janet? Thanks for taking the time for my post. 🙂
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We won’t be going until late next year, but I’m ready for suggestions at any time. I’m making a notebook of ideas, suggestions, etc.. So any time. Is your email address on your blog or with your gravatar? I think mine’s with my gravatar.
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I think mine is too… just remind me, if I drop the ball. 😉
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Ummm. I have only one word: Jealous!!
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Perhaps your next adventure? YOU would love it… and there are so many interesting travelers down there! Thanks for checking it out, Jolene.
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I’ve never been to Belize, Dawn…but your post definitely makes me want to go! I’ve done a couple of water things (like walking underwater with a Jules Verne type helmet)…but I’ve never snorkeled…too much of a chicken about the water, I guess (I never learned to swim properly). Thank you so much for sharing these amazing video clips and photos…you are a wonderful writer…I was right there with you. 🙂
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Thanks Vivian, and how wonderful to see you in my comments! I’ve missed you. I have to say, I would be far too chicken to wear one of those Jules Verne helmets, outfits… I want to know I can swim back to the surface when I need to! I think that would freak me out… claustrophobically. Snorkeling is SO easy. All you do is don a mask and snorkel (take a few minutes to work with the snorkel, to be comfortable breathing through it) and then float… just lie there and watch the magic!
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The more I see, the more I think you’re 100% correct. It would be a crime not to put this on the short list of places that must be visited.
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SHORT list. The expenses were pretty low… $1 US = $2 Belize, but they except US dollar every where, and give the same rate. The people are wonderful, and it is over the moon gorgeous! Really worth the trip… and not that hard of a trip, via LA, from the west coast. From Atlanta, it’s under 3 hrs! Short list, my friend.
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Color me green with envy!! Beautiful photos. I’m so sorry you were in pain, but glad that you got to float in that exquisite water, fish and coral gazing. Thanks for sharing your pictures. One time when I was on a night dive at the Seychelles, my dive partner signaled for us to shut off our flashlights temporarily (we had glow sticks on our tanks). He swirled his hands in the water and the phosphorescence lighted up around us. It was like being up in the middle of the stars on a crystal clear, pitch black night. Blew my mind. Take it easy and heal.
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Dawn, I’ve always wanted to dive, too, but have never quite made it. I went snorkeling once in shallow waters in Hawaii. It was beautiful, but not the complete experience I’m sure it could be. I used to look at this ocean book when I was kid and dreamed of being a marine biologist. I was fascinated by it. I love the turtles and manta rays the best. Really beautiful photos! Thanks for sharing your experience!
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Amy, you have to find an opportunity to snorkel again, sometime. It’s all about relaxing, letting the water hold you up, as you watch the undersea world. It’s so beautiful and special! I never get tired of it… but in a place like Belize, it’s just incredible! 😀
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Dawn, Once more you’ve taken us with you to Belize in the only way possible for many of us, but it is lovely. I’m so glad that there are a few places in the world where the ocean is protected. You make a great travel writer. Also, the new top for your blog is beautiful!
Susan (I’m more used to Susan)
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Susan, thank you so much. You always say the kindest things, and I sincerely appreciate your thoughtful words. I would love to be a travel writer (I have done some freelance). Traveling is such a big part of who I am… be it nearby or far away! Thanks for taking the time.
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Beautiful post, Dawn. As you know, I love that world and can’t wait for our trip in September. I’m glad you were able to enjoy in spite of your injury. And you’ll get to dive sometime in the future – I just know it!
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Yes, I was very lucky that floating around felt good! Swimming, not so much. 😉 I hope to take diving lessons this summer, for a trip this fall. CAN’T WAIT to see the photos YOU bring back!!
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Reblogged this on ugiridharaprasad.
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Fantastic!
Promise yourself that as soon as you can, you’ll get dive certified and go.
It is so worth the effort.
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I plan to do it this summer, Guapo! I want to be certified for a big trip this October. 🙂 Thanks for taking the time.
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What a dream come true, to visit the stunning underwater habitat of these beautiful creatures of the sea! Because I used to be a SCUBA diver and have subsequently done a lot of snorkeling in tropical seas, I can relate to the wonders you shared from your water excursions. Nothing else in the world matters when you are immersed in nature as were you and your friends. Thanks for sharing the amazing photos.
PS – I look forward to a reunion visit before the end of summer! 🙂 – Mike
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Thanks so much, Mike! A reunion would be wonderful! I’ll watch for details. 😉
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